I have been seriously neglectful. It's been a logistical nightmare with my car being out of commission. We're making it work but not without a lot of cussing and hairpulling on my part. This is stuff you probably don't want to hear about unless I have a few beers in me to entertain you with the stories. =) At any rate, I finish by this Saturday. . .or Sunday. . .or Monday depending on how this rescheduling thing goes. I am so ready to get away from these car troubles! Next week! I'll be bussing it to Kampala on Tuesday--get to meet with the country director of Peace Corps and do some last minute shopping and then I get the pleasure of a long flight home. Will try to update once or twice more before leaving. I'll post pictures when I get home!
Can't wait to see many of you! =)
Oh we saw chimps on Sunday! It was pretty cool! =)
09 July, 2008
02 July, 2008
Rwenzori Road Trip
Ok, I don’t really know how this became the way it turned out but somehow I survived climbing a damn mountain—part of the Mountains of the Moon or the Rwenzoris. Aerin, Colin, Melissa and I initially wanted to do a road trip to a park none of us had ever seen. Going to Queen again would have been cool and perhaps going all the way down to see the Ishasha lions—of course that would have been awesome. Maybe next year. None of us had ever gone to Semiliki. So I called up Richard Tooro who runs Kabarole Tours and wanted a deal on seeing Semiliki and the pygmy group there. Somehow, we not only got Semiliki but we also got to trek the Rwenzoris. Being a Florida girl and not having been in the mountains really since 2000, this was not a good idea. I wasn’t ready. Had no training but somehow decided that I could hang with my mountain folk friends (all who reside in Colorado, Alaska, one of those Canadian provinces). The damn trek was 25km! I felt like an old hag lagging behind. I had to stop and catch my breath going up. I recover fast which is good but damn some of those places were steep! The scenery is beautiful but you are actually only in the park for about 6km or so, the rest is going through villages to get there. This is the footpath that people from Bundibudjo (the last town before DRC) take to sell their goods everyday because it’s cheaper than taking transport to Fort Portal. They do this in bare feet, so I feel like a total loser when I’m huffing and puffing to get up these inclines. The forest does change though. We walked through a bamboo forest which was really cool and nice. I think we got up to 2500 meters or so. Then the descent was brutal. You would think that you would prefer going down. I just prefer flat and a helicopter to come get my ass. Down is fine until your big toes have had enough jamming up against your shoes. Your quad muscles shake like hell and you think you’ve eaten enough bananas to stop but it doesn’t work. Over halfway down, I thought I would lose it, the pain was so bad on my toes. I have bruises underneath my toenails from it. I’ve never been so happy to see a vehicle in my life! I was in tears—the cuticles of my big toes burn like hell but the pounding has pretty much stopped.
When we finally got off the mountain, they took us into Bundibudjo to the Vanilla Hotel—which is a hotel built by farmers. It’s supposed to be the best in town. They have self-contained rooms which are tiny but definitely doable. They did have flushing toilets and a shower though it was cold water. I didn’t care at this point, I was so sweaty, I could handle the cold shower. We got cleaned up and ordered beers (cold ones!) and food. You would think that if a menu only has about 5 items then it would be difficult to screw up the order and bring out on time. WRONG! We asked for 4 rice, 4 beans, 3 chickens, and 1 beef. Over an hour and half go by and no food. I’m getting irritated. We were all getting irritated. I tried to let the manager know. Then they bring out food but it wasn’t what we ordered. We didn’t want matoke! They said we ordered it and we argued about it and finally got what we asked for. The others ordered the chicken which they said had to be old chicken because it was so tough. My beef was mostly fat but what could you do? Then Scott called and I went back to my room to talk to him and to pass out.
The next morning we got up for breakfast. We asked for fruit and juice; they said they didn’t have any. We asked for African tea and percolated coffee. We got hot water and Nescafe. Finally got the tea right. They said they had omelets so we ordered them. She came back with bread and 2 boiled eggs. I asked if this was an omelets. She looked at me like, “No bitch, it’s an f’ing boiled egg.” She told us it was a boiled egg but then we told her again that we wanted an omelet. So she took the eggs back. She came back with 4 fried eggs. Then somehow they found bananas and passion fruit juice (mind you we were in the area of the country with the BEST fruits!). After that debacle, Melissa told us that she had ants in her bed and couldn’t sleep all night. We told Moses our driver about it and the assistant manager or whoever was like, “When you come back, I will be the only one to serve you.” It was difficult to keep my mouth closed and say Lady, we’re never coming back. I’m sure it’s a decent hotel for where it is but we were so tired and our patience was not thick.
Then we set off for Semiliki National Park. On the way there, there was a Batwa Pygmy Village. They are more likely Bambuti but for whatever reason, they had signs for the Batwas. They are a hunter-gatherer group that was pushed out of the forest when it was gazetted. The European Union bought them land and looked like they were doing some agricultural work but not much else. They could do some cultural tourism. It’s pretty damn intimidating. They great you very nicely, pull out seats for you and then surround you shoving crafts in your face. Then there is a viewing fee that is bartered. You know these people are seriously poor so you don’t want to bargain down too much. The viewing fee included a dance and a house viewing (in the forest they would only have temporary shelter). The dancing was awful—it didn’t look authentic, just a bunch up people moving in a circle smoking blunts (huge blunts!). It was sad and we all felt dirty for visiting. I think it would be a great potential for tourism in the cultural sense but it has to be worked out better than what is going on now. It’s terrible and sad. But I am glad that I was able to see how seriously marginalized these people are. It’s seriously hard to put it into words.
Then we went on to Semiliki NP. We hiked again but this time it was flat. We visited the hot springs which are so hot you can’t go in them. This is definitely the jungle I had pictured and it was quite cool to go and visit. At lunch, Moses and our guide, Arthur, boiled our lunch in the hot springs. The boiled eggs, matoke, and potatoes and cut up these beautiful tomatoes and the sweetest pineapple and avocados. It was the best lunch ever! Then we headed back home.
I’m very glad that I hiked the mountain and that I got to see two national parks. Would I do it again? Probably not unless by some warped sense of humor I become a hiking fanatic. Scott wants me to go hiking but I think I should start small—with flat and work my way up to higher inclines. My legs are paying the price now but they should be better by the end of the week I hope.
Tuesday, Erimos and I needed to head to town to get some things before heading to Bigodi for our interviews. Suzy wouldn’t start. What a pain in the ass! Had to get her pushed to start. Then she wouldn’t start up at the gas station but Edward the Mechanic got his boys to meet us and fix a loose connection. It worked fine the rest of the day but we were late to our meetings—it wasn’t the worst that could happen. We just got home late. Erimos doesn’t seem well so I hope that he will be able to work tomorrow but I stressed to him that if he didn’t feel well, then we will do these interviews another time. It could wait.
And I think I have another damn mango fly! How?!?!?! It hasn’t been raining! It’s on my upper arm but I can’t find the hole but it’s swollen up and hot like the other ones. Aerin is excited. She said that I would have to grow it for a while and then we would have a public extraction. Can’t wait. It’s got a very limited time to grow if that is indeed what it is. I’m not bringing it home. Sorry. Will let you know how it turns out.
Got to run and do some work! =)
When we finally got off the mountain, they took us into Bundibudjo to the Vanilla Hotel—which is a hotel built by farmers. It’s supposed to be the best in town. They have self-contained rooms which are tiny but definitely doable. They did have flushing toilets and a shower though it was cold water. I didn’t care at this point, I was so sweaty, I could handle the cold shower. We got cleaned up and ordered beers (cold ones!) and food. You would think that if a menu only has about 5 items then it would be difficult to screw up the order and bring out on time. WRONG! We asked for 4 rice, 4 beans, 3 chickens, and 1 beef. Over an hour and half go by and no food. I’m getting irritated. We were all getting irritated. I tried to let the manager know. Then they bring out food but it wasn’t what we ordered. We didn’t want matoke! They said we ordered it and we argued about it and finally got what we asked for. The others ordered the chicken which they said had to be old chicken because it was so tough. My beef was mostly fat but what could you do? Then Scott called and I went back to my room to talk to him and to pass out.
The next morning we got up for breakfast. We asked for fruit and juice; they said they didn’t have any. We asked for African tea and percolated coffee. We got hot water and Nescafe. Finally got the tea right. They said they had omelets so we ordered them. She came back with bread and 2 boiled eggs. I asked if this was an omelets. She looked at me like, “No bitch, it’s an f’ing boiled egg.” She told us it was a boiled egg but then we told her again that we wanted an omelet. So she took the eggs back. She came back with 4 fried eggs. Then somehow they found bananas and passion fruit juice (mind you we were in the area of the country with the BEST fruits!). After that debacle, Melissa told us that she had ants in her bed and couldn’t sleep all night. We told Moses our driver about it and the assistant manager or whoever was like, “When you come back, I will be the only one to serve you.” It was difficult to keep my mouth closed and say Lady, we’re never coming back. I’m sure it’s a decent hotel for where it is but we were so tired and our patience was not thick.
Then we set off for Semiliki National Park. On the way there, there was a Batwa Pygmy Village. They are more likely Bambuti but for whatever reason, they had signs for the Batwas. They are a hunter-gatherer group that was pushed out of the forest when it was gazetted. The European Union bought them land and looked like they were doing some agricultural work but not much else. They could do some cultural tourism. It’s pretty damn intimidating. They great you very nicely, pull out seats for you and then surround you shoving crafts in your face. Then there is a viewing fee that is bartered. You know these people are seriously poor so you don’t want to bargain down too much. The viewing fee included a dance and a house viewing (in the forest they would only have temporary shelter). The dancing was awful—it didn’t look authentic, just a bunch up people moving in a circle smoking blunts (huge blunts!). It was sad and we all felt dirty for visiting. I think it would be a great potential for tourism in the cultural sense but it has to be worked out better than what is going on now. It’s terrible and sad. But I am glad that I was able to see how seriously marginalized these people are. It’s seriously hard to put it into words.
Then we went on to Semiliki NP. We hiked again but this time it was flat. We visited the hot springs which are so hot you can’t go in them. This is definitely the jungle I had pictured and it was quite cool to go and visit. At lunch, Moses and our guide, Arthur, boiled our lunch in the hot springs. The boiled eggs, matoke, and potatoes and cut up these beautiful tomatoes and the sweetest pineapple and avocados. It was the best lunch ever! Then we headed back home.
I’m very glad that I hiked the mountain and that I got to see two national parks. Would I do it again? Probably not unless by some warped sense of humor I become a hiking fanatic. Scott wants me to go hiking but I think I should start small—with flat and work my way up to higher inclines. My legs are paying the price now but they should be better by the end of the week I hope.
Tuesday, Erimos and I needed to head to town to get some things before heading to Bigodi for our interviews. Suzy wouldn’t start. What a pain in the ass! Had to get her pushed to start. Then she wouldn’t start up at the gas station but Edward the Mechanic got his boys to meet us and fix a loose connection. It worked fine the rest of the day but we were late to our meetings—it wasn’t the worst that could happen. We just got home late. Erimos doesn’t seem well so I hope that he will be able to work tomorrow but I stressed to him that if he didn’t feel well, then we will do these interviews another time. It could wait.
And I think I have another damn mango fly! How?!?!?! It hasn’t been raining! It’s on my upper arm but I can’t find the hole but it’s swollen up and hot like the other ones. Aerin is excited. She said that I would have to grow it for a while and then we would have a public extraction. Can’t wait. It’s got a very limited time to grow if that is indeed what it is. I’m not bringing it home. Sorry. Will let you know how it turns out.
Got to run and do some work! =)
Dancing with the Women
I’m not sure I could have a more perfect day for research. My arms are going to be huge from the car’s non-power steering. It drives. . .that’s all that counts right now. I can get from point A to point B and get this all done.
Abe called this morning—still jetlagged and up at 2:30 am. Our printer is basically broken. It needs the “ink service module” replaced—like I’m going to find that in Africa! He called to tell me that it would be about $200 to replace. I guess people get new printers before then. But ours isn’t that old. I guess other people don’t print as many pictures as we do. So it looks like we will be printing these bad boys off from the US and sending them back and give Erimos a few more days of work returning them. I wish I would be with him to see their faces.
So you must be asking, why was this such a perfect day for research? Well, I thought it wasn’t going to be great. I didn’t get the best interview out of a lodge that I thought would be pretty promising yesterday and I was expecting the same from this one. They don’t get many tourists at all but it’s beautiful. I also thought they would have forgotten that I was coming. Further, I thought I would hear more from the manager/guide who really just annoys the hell out of me. And I didn’t think he would have the women’s group organized. Boy was I wrong.
The owner did most of the talking—taking time out of his busy schedule to do so. He talked for about 1 ½ hours and gave me some interesting insight on issues with tourism—apparently it’s not all roses, which I appreciate. He had some good ideas too and I enjoyed hearing him talk about Amin’s time and his views on tourism. A very insightful interview. Then we started talking personal and I showed him a picture of Scott. He asked me why I chose to be with a giant. I just laughed. He said he understood why I would be interested in someone so strong. Then he asked when we were both moving to Uganda. Some people never give up on this idea. . .
Erimos and I had our lunch. The place is quiet and beautiful—and with flushing toilets (a total surprise!). Then I saw the parade of women coming. We started getting their information—the demographics and there were some men in the group because it wasn’t actually a basket group but an orphan and widow’s care group. The women just happen to be the ones making the baskets. There were several women over 60. I swear some of them look like they are in their 40s. Many of them had over 7 children. One woman there was 82! The interview was informative but the fun was about to start. We got them out for pictures and they were laughing at me for asking them to smile. They thought it was great. Then they said they wouldn’t be complete without having me in the picture with them. So we did that. Then Erimos translated that I had a small gift for them and I hope that they would take it in thanks for spending time with me. We passed out the soap and they were SO THANKFUL! They were smiling and blessing me. They were so lovely! Then they decided to sing for me. This also meant dancing! Since most of them were Bakiga, they did the traditional women’s dance. It’s my favorite! You can’t help but move. The song is haunting but happy and inviting. They have this choreographed stomp and jumping move they do and it’s so happy! They continued to sing and dance and I took pictures and then I just couldn’t help myself, I jumped right in! I had no idea what I was doing and I knew I was making a complete fool of myself but it felt good to jump around with these women yelling encouragement and jumping and dancing around me. It sounds dumb but I felt like I belonged. Erimos was laughing his ass off at me. I loved it!
After that, the 82 year old woman came up to me and gave this bear hug—she was so strong! I had no idea what she said but I know she loved me. We said our goodbyes and as we were leaving she came up to me and gave me this mat that she made. It’s beautiful! I couldn’t believe it—all her hard work and this is her only source of income and she gave it to me. What do you do? Then the chairperson came up and gave me a millet basket. I love it! I am so lucky to get to do this kind of research. I get to talk to these women who work so hard for so little and care for large families, some who are not their own. They care about these children and want the best for them. Who am I to get to share a little bit of their world? I’m surrounded by people doing really scientific research that spits out lots of quantitative data. But I get to talk to people. My data reacts and smiles and laughs and I couldn’t ask for anything better.
I never thought I would be one to really enjoy this gender type research but I’m liking it. I love talking to these women. Research on basket making hasn’t been done in this area—at least that we are aware of. Everyone has been forthcoming with information and we hope that it continues. I can definitely get used to hanging out with the ladies all the time—it’s way too much fun. No one should have this much fun doing research or work! In fact I think I have a little too much fun. Aerin and Colin are going out with me tomorrow to check out some women’s groups, the king’s tombs (which we aren’t sure are receiving tourists or not), the king’s palace and we have an interview with another women’s group. Melissa, my new neighbor, is going out with me on Saturday. I would never have dreamed that I’d be doing something that others are interested in.
Because of the issues with the car and time running out, we won’t be able to bring back any of the information that we’ve collected. I hope to come back next year and do that though. I owe it to them.
On Sunday, Aerin, Colin, Melissa, and I are heading to Semiliki. We’re going with Kabarole Tours (one of my informants). We’re going to the game reserve, the national park and staying the night. We’re also going to visit a Bambuti village (one of the pygmy groups). Richard gave us a serious discount though he’ll still make plenty of money on us. We’ll be back on Monday. Then the following Sunday we are going to go chimp trekking. I figure that if I’m studying tourism, then I should be a tourist once in a while. That should be fun and cool.
Well, I do have to get up early. I hope all is well. Can’t believe I have just over 2 weeks left to get my interviews done and then it’s packing and heading to Kampala. Wow. This is nuts! I’ll see many of you before you know it!
Abe called this morning—still jetlagged and up at 2:30 am. Our printer is basically broken. It needs the “ink service module” replaced—like I’m going to find that in Africa! He called to tell me that it would be about $200 to replace. I guess people get new printers before then. But ours isn’t that old. I guess other people don’t print as many pictures as we do. So it looks like we will be printing these bad boys off from the US and sending them back and give Erimos a few more days of work returning them. I wish I would be with him to see their faces.
So you must be asking, why was this such a perfect day for research? Well, I thought it wasn’t going to be great. I didn’t get the best interview out of a lodge that I thought would be pretty promising yesterday and I was expecting the same from this one. They don’t get many tourists at all but it’s beautiful. I also thought they would have forgotten that I was coming. Further, I thought I would hear more from the manager/guide who really just annoys the hell out of me. And I didn’t think he would have the women’s group organized. Boy was I wrong.
The owner did most of the talking—taking time out of his busy schedule to do so. He talked for about 1 ½ hours and gave me some interesting insight on issues with tourism—apparently it’s not all roses, which I appreciate. He had some good ideas too and I enjoyed hearing him talk about Amin’s time and his views on tourism. A very insightful interview. Then we started talking personal and I showed him a picture of Scott. He asked me why I chose to be with a giant. I just laughed. He said he understood why I would be interested in someone so strong. Then he asked when we were both moving to Uganda. Some people never give up on this idea. . .
Erimos and I had our lunch. The place is quiet and beautiful—and with flushing toilets (a total surprise!). Then I saw the parade of women coming. We started getting their information—the demographics and there were some men in the group because it wasn’t actually a basket group but an orphan and widow’s care group. The women just happen to be the ones making the baskets. There were several women over 60. I swear some of them look like they are in their 40s. Many of them had over 7 children. One woman there was 82! The interview was informative but the fun was about to start. We got them out for pictures and they were laughing at me for asking them to smile. They thought it was great. Then they said they wouldn’t be complete without having me in the picture with them. So we did that. Then Erimos translated that I had a small gift for them and I hope that they would take it in thanks for spending time with me. We passed out the soap and they were SO THANKFUL! They were smiling and blessing me. They were so lovely! Then they decided to sing for me. This also meant dancing! Since most of them were Bakiga, they did the traditional women’s dance. It’s my favorite! You can’t help but move. The song is haunting but happy and inviting. They have this choreographed stomp and jumping move they do and it’s so happy! They continued to sing and dance and I took pictures and then I just couldn’t help myself, I jumped right in! I had no idea what I was doing and I knew I was making a complete fool of myself but it felt good to jump around with these women yelling encouragement and jumping and dancing around me. It sounds dumb but I felt like I belonged. Erimos was laughing his ass off at me. I loved it!
After that, the 82 year old woman came up to me and gave this bear hug—she was so strong! I had no idea what she said but I know she loved me. We said our goodbyes and as we were leaving she came up to me and gave me this mat that she made. It’s beautiful! I couldn’t believe it—all her hard work and this is her only source of income and she gave it to me. What do you do? Then the chairperson came up and gave me a millet basket. I love it! I am so lucky to get to do this kind of research. I get to talk to these women who work so hard for so little and care for large families, some who are not their own. They care about these children and want the best for them. Who am I to get to share a little bit of their world? I’m surrounded by people doing really scientific research that spits out lots of quantitative data. But I get to talk to people. My data reacts and smiles and laughs and I couldn’t ask for anything better.
I never thought I would be one to really enjoy this gender type research but I’m liking it. I love talking to these women. Research on basket making hasn’t been done in this area—at least that we are aware of. Everyone has been forthcoming with information and we hope that it continues. I can definitely get used to hanging out with the ladies all the time—it’s way too much fun. No one should have this much fun doing research or work! In fact I think I have a little too much fun. Aerin and Colin are going out with me tomorrow to check out some women’s groups, the king’s tombs (which we aren’t sure are receiving tourists or not), the king’s palace and we have an interview with another women’s group. Melissa, my new neighbor, is going out with me on Saturday. I would never have dreamed that I’d be doing something that others are interested in.
Because of the issues with the car and time running out, we won’t be able to bring back any of the information that we’ve collected. I hope to come back next year and do that though. I owe it to them.
On Sunday, Aerin, Colin, Melissa, and I are heading to Semiliki. We’re going with Kabarole Tours (one of my informants). We’re going to the game reserve, the national park and staying the night. We’re also going to visit a Bambuti village (one of the pygmy groups). Richard gave us a serious discount though he’ll still make plenty of money on us. We’ll be back on Monday. Then the following Sunday we are going to go chimp trekking. I figure that if I’m studying tourism, then I should be a tourist once in a while. That should be fun and cool.
Well, I do have to get up early. I hope all is well. Can’t believe I have just over 2 weeks left to get my interviews done and then it’s packing and heading to Kampala. Wow. This is nuts! I’ll see many of you before you know it!
24 June, 2008
Broken Down Week
So I’ve been MIA for a while. It’s not like I had a choice though.
I was knocked on my back last week. I came back from the field on Monday and just didn’t feel well. I went to lie down—expecting that I would only take a 30 minute nap. That turned into 2 hours. I got up and felt extremely dizzy and nauseated. I HATE that feeling. I tried to boil water to take a bucket bath but ended up lying on kitchen floor trying not fall on my face. I hate the clamminess and losing the feeling in my hands. Smells made me nauseous—I could hardly eat. I went to bed and couldn’t sleep the entire night. I would get comfortable and the dizzy spells would come, I would reposition and then they would come on again. It sucked so bad! I had diarrhea but not terrible. 8am came and Abe came to check on me and I told him that I couldn’t get out of bed. I slept until 4pm that day. I was totally wasted from the nausea. Dennis, the nurse from the new clinic that will open came to check. He wanted to take me into town to get some tests. I wanted to punch his lights out for even suggesting that we get in a vehicle on these bumpy roads. Abe saved me and said that it wasn’t a good idea unless I wanted to go. I didn’t. I think it was just a stomach thing because I felt better after I woke up and slowly started gaining my appetite back. It was not fun! I’d rather have fever or army ants invade. I did get the question, “Are you pregnant?” I wanted to sock Paco for asking. No! I’m definitely not! Trust me, I know.
Also, our vehicle has been in the shop for a week. If you are viewing this entry, you know that I have the vehicle now. It was looked at in Kampala before coming but they either screwed something else up or didn’t fix the problem. The other issue was that something on the suspension needs to be fixed—not surprising since the roads are hell here. So none of the parts are in Fort Portal. Go figure. Patrick was heading into the capital to take some of the researchers who were heading home. He was able to pick up the timing chain but not the bushings (sp??) for the suspension because of one issue or another. I’m in freak out mode because we’ve been without a vehicle for a week and I have less than 3 weeks to get everything done. I lost 2 weeks because of Joel and Abe and being sick. I don’t have time for this! They are supposed to get the vehicle back to me with the timing chain and do the bushings after I leave. I drive slow anyway but we don’t really have a choice.
I’ve been trying to schedule everyone. Many are cooperating with me while others are being a bit more difficult. It’ll get done—I don’t have a choice.
Another issue: the damn printer has declared mutiny and refuses to print. For some reason, this printer has an “ink service module” that when it gets full, it needs to be replaced. Of course I’m not going to find that piece here! So either I can’t print anything any more or we are going to try to get someone to bring it over who is coming next week. We’ll see how that goes. I’d hate to have to go home and print stuff out there and mail them back but we’ll do what we have to do.
The only really fun thing that happened last week was that I made a program for some of the field researchers to meet with one of the women’s basket groups that I interviewed. The ladies were so adorable! They placed all their baskets out and we bought! I swear they are an addiction! Abe can’t help himself. He had to get rid of so much stuff before he left so that he could fit everything in his suitcases. The event was so much fun that other researchers are asking for another program so that they can buy. I think I probably have the most popular research project here. Everyone wants to tag along for the interviews. It’s kind of weird for me to think anyone would be interested in what I’m doing but they are. And I’m enjoying it. Just want my car back.
So if my schedule works out, I will be able to get everything done—by the skin of my teeth! We are also trying to schedule some other things. We hope to head to Semiliki on Sunday. We haven’t completely confirmed but are going to try to spend two days there—Sunday through Monday. If there are several of us, we can go for cheaper. Will let you know. The other thing we are going to do is go chimp trekking. I didn’t get to do it last year and I think as someone looking at tourism, I should participate in some of the activities that tourists do. We plan to do this on the 6th. Should be fun.
Yesterday, Erimos and I were on foot and interviewing individual basket makers. We were exhausted. We aren’t used to walking too far to get where we need to go. I think we did about 4km all the way around and it was a bit hot. But it was a good form of exercise and I need to get back into the groove since I’ve been out of it because of being ill.
Ok, I guess that sums up the week. Hope everyone is doing well. Hope to have more interesting things for you soon! =)
I was knocked on my back last week. I came back from the field on Monday and just didn’t feel well. I went to lie down—expecting that I would only take a 30 minute nap. That turned into 2 hours. I got up and felt extremely dizzy and nauseated. I HATE that feeling. I tried to boil water to take a bucket bath but ended up lying on kitchen floor trying not fall on my face. I hate the clamminess and losing the feeling in my hands. Smells made me nauseous—I could hardly eat. I went to bed and couldn’t sleep the entire night. I would get comfortable and the dizzy spells would come, I would reposition and then they would come on again. It sucked so bad! I had diarrhea but not terrible. 8am came and Abe came to check on me and I told him that I couldn’t get out of bed. I slept until 4pm that day. I was totally wasted from the nausea. Dennis, the nurse from the new clinic that will open came to check. He wanted to take me into town to get some tests. I wanted to punch his lights out for even suggesting that we get in a vehicle on these bumpy roads. Abe saved me and said that it wasn’t a good idea unless I wanted to go. I didn’t. I think it was just a stomach thing because I felt better after I woke up and slowly started gaining my appetite back. It was not fun! I’d rather have fever or army ants invade. I did get the question, “Are you pregnant?” I wanted to sock Paco for asking. No! I’m definitely not! Trust me, I know.
Also, our vehicle has been in the shop for a week. If you are viewing this entry, you know that I have the vehicle now. It was looked at in Kampala before coming but they either screwed something else up or didn’t fix the problem. The other issue was that something on the suspension needs to be fixed—not surprising since the roads are hell here. So none of the parts are in Fort Portal. Go figure. Patrick was heading into the capital to take some of the researchers who were heading home. He was able to pick up the timing chain but not the bushings (sp??) for the suspension because of one issue or another. I’m in freak out mode because we’ve been without a vehicle for a week and I have less than 3 weeks to get everything done. I lost 2 weeks because of Joel and Abe and being sick. I don’t have time for this! They are supposed to get the vehicle back to me with the timing chain and do the bushings after I leave. I drive slow anyway but we don’t really have a choice.
I’ve been trying to schedule everyone. Many are cooperating with me while others are being a bit more difficult. It’ll get done—I don’t have a choice.
Another issue: the damn printer has declared mutiny and refuses to print. For some reason, this printer has an “ink service module” that when it gets full, it needs to be replaced. Of course I’m not going to find that piece here! So either I can’t print anything any more or we are going to try to get someone to bring it over who is coming next week. We’ll see how that goes. I’d hate to have to go home and print stuff out there and mail them back but we’ll do what we have to do.
The only really fun thing that happened last week was that I made a program for some of the field researchers to meet with one of the women’s basket groups that I interviewed. The ladies were so adorable! They placed all their baskets out and we bought! I swear they are an addiction! Abe can’t help himself. He had to get rid of so much stuff before he left so that he could fit everything in his suitcases. The event was so much fun that other researchers are asking for another program so that they can buy. I think I probably have the most popular research project here. Everyone wants to tag along for the interviews. It’s kind of weird for me to think anyone would be interested in what I’m doing but they are. And I’m enjoying it. Just want my car back.
So if my schedule works out, I will be able to get everything done—by the skin of my teeth! We are also trying to schedule some other things. We hope to head to Semiliki on Sunday. We haven’t completely confirmed but are going to try to spend two days there—Sunday through Monday. If there are several of us, we can go for cheaper. Will let you know. The other thing we are going to do is go chimp trekking. I didn’t get to do it last year and I think as someone looking at tourism, I should participate in some of the activities that tourists do. We plan to do this on the 6th. Should be fun.
Yesterday, Erimos and I were on foot and interviewing individual basket makers. We were exhausted. We aren’t used to walking too far to get where we need to go. I think we did about 4km all the way around and it was a bit hot. But it was a good form of exercise and I need to get back into the groove since I’ve been out of it because of being ill.
Ok, I guess that sums up the week. Hope everyone is doing well. Hope to have more interesting things for you soon! =)
15 June, 2008
Long Week
Not much to report today. I wasn't ready to write a blog when I got home. Spent 2 lovely but difficult nights in town at Mountains of the Moon--needed some peace and quiet and a time to reflect. The great food, hot shower, movie channels, appropriate electricity and phone reception were awesome to have too. Wish it went under better circumstances. ANyway, I'm back to work--not too many days left--I think I have somewhere in the low 30ish days left and more and more women's group just keep popping up! Suzi probably needs some work done and need to get a day for that. . .too much to do dammit. But it will keep me busy. I'll do better at writing again. WE took Joel to the bus station today and Abe leaves next Sunday and then I'm back on my own. WE have a basket program today as they are hard to resist. Hope all is well and I'll get back on track soon.
Love you all and thanks for the thoughts and prayers.
Love you all and thanks for the thoughts and prayers.
10 June, 2008
The Saddest Week
Nothing is more defeating than knowing that you can't comfort the ones you love or even yourself. We lost an amazing woman last week and we are all struggling to understand. I don't have the words to describe my grief or the hopelessness I feel while staying here. I know little about what's going on. I feel deep sadness for all who loved Lindsay. We are all better people for knowing her. Lindsay, you are the angel in the sky. I know you will care for that little one in your arms and watch over all of us here. I know this isn't the last time we will be together. How I want to be home.
I don't remember much of last week other than trying to get through it. The immense frustration of everything did get to me--the crappy cell phone reception, the army ants attacking my latrine and my kitchen, the rain. . .Abe and Joel are here now and that's kept me busy.
I'm staying in town for two nights to get my head together and grieve as well as hear from family with less difficulty. I chose a hotel that I knew had good electricity and would have full reception and I can be just another mzungu. Didn't want to go to any of my sites because I didn't want people doting over me. I want to be left alone by everyone other than my family.
I'll get it together. I'll come back and finish and then I'll go home. I'll come home to Virginia and try to heal with everyone else. Please keep our families in your prayers. I'll see many of you when I return. I promise to have it together enough to finish my time here.
Take care of you all,
Amy
I don't remember much of last week other than trying to get through it. The immense frustration of everything did get to me--the crappy cell phone reception, the army ants attacking my latrine and my kitchen, the rain. . .Abe and Joel are here now and that's kept me busy.
I'm staying in town for two nights to get my head together and grieve as well as hear from family with less difficulty. I chose a hotel that I knew had good electricity and would have full reception and I can be just another mzungu. Didn't want to go to any of my sites because I didn't want people doting over me. I want to be left alone by everyone other than my family.
I'll get it together. I'll come back and finish and then I'll go home. I'll come home to Virginia and try to heal with everyone else. Please keep our families in your prayers. I'll see many of you when I return. I promise to have it together enough to finish my time here.
Take care of you all,
Amy
01 June, 2008
Happy June!
The days just run together for me. If it weren’t for a list on my makeshift calendar I wouldn’t really be able to remember anything that I’ve done!
Friday I had an interview with Richard Tooro who runs Kabarole Tours. I was relieved to find him there and that he remembered that we had an appointment. He’s full of great information and even suggested another site that he is trying to help promote. He’s pretty interesting and I feel that he genuinely has a good heart and the best intentions even if others don’t feel that it’s always such. Nevertheless, when it comes to advertising activities around here, he does it very well and everyone is getting the same price—works out best for us foreigners who are always suspect that people are trying to rip you off.
After that, Erimosi and I have lunch and then went back to the Guest Farm. However, the owner mistaken that I said 10am and not 1pm. So we saw some of the sites but have to come back next week to talk with her. Since I haven’t received a phone call stating otherwise, it looks like we will be doing so Monday morning. Beautiful place and seems to be mid-level at about $70/night (compared to high-end $295). They have horses though that look pretty thin—it pains me to see large animals (or any animal!) with their ribs visible. She’s going to have to do something if she hopes to continue to keep mzungus satisfied; they won’t like seen thin domestic animals. The flowers are still gorgeous.
Saturday Erimosi and I went on a hunt for individual basket weavers in the morning. He has located 3 last week while I stayed at camp working. I guess people are still surprised when we ask for them because I don’t think anyone has ever talked with basket makers before in this area. So it’s been difficult to find them. But once you talk to one. . .man, all of a sudden, EVERYONE starts coming out and bringing their baskets! In one area, we can probably spend at least half a day there because all these women kept showing up. The problem though, with the individual basket makers is that they aren’t making them for tourists—at least the ones we have found; they are making them just for locals. I going to rework the questions—particularly targeting more resource type questions and see if Abe wants us to continue looking at the individuals or if we should stick with just the groups.
In the afternoon, we went to our women’s group appointment. It rained on us pretty heavily and we were squashed inside the chairperson’s house until the end. They were so lovely and I learned a bit more about their baskets and the dyeing process and baskets of the past. They were pretty interesting. Some were still a bit bummed that I only wanted to talk about baskets but Erimosi has gotten pretty skilled at explaining why I can’t really look at anything else at this moment—perhaps the PhD. =) At the end of the meeting, I took group pictures, was forced to pose the African way with the only dude in the group (he makes cards, not baskets)—thank God the picture isn’t on my camera! Then they sang their anthem, which just tugs at your heart strings because they are great singers and performers. I’m such a sap that I got a little teary-eyed.
Then it was off to find my cook somewhere in the market. She was getting her hair done and the ladies in there wanted to get a hold of mine. No thanks! I have seen my former students beat their heads because the braids were so tight and they couldn’t scratch! We left without her since she had a ride and instead brought home the clinic directors wife--which is a whole other story only said to some of you in private since she is such a "character".
Anyway, we're in town and are doing groceries, email and pork! I'm so excited to get pork! WooHoo! I've manage to lose a little weight to the point where I can fit into some pants that I brought. Go me! I'll try not to destroy this success by stuffing my belly with pork but it's the only meat I can get for a while.
Take care of you all!
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